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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.